Thursday, June 17, 2010

Italy Journal 3 - Hilltop of Florence

            We visited the Hilltop of Florence early in the morning, by way of the large flight of stairs that ascend directly to the top. On a previous night, I had visited the same place by climbing the winding road shared by pedestrians and cars. It felt much safer to be walking up the stairs. It was pouring rain by the time we reached the top and our class took cover under the awning of a café until the rain let up.
            The first stop was the Church of San Miniato, a large Romanesque building with much softer lines than the gothic exterior of the Duomo. The church is situated in a lush and verdant area with many of the typical tall Tuscan evergreen trees. San Miniato is the first church in Italy that I've been able to go inside. The cool, arid interior was a grounding feeling after the wet scurrying that proceeded it. Upon entering, I was struck by the frescos that line the walls and wondered how much history those faces must have witnessed over the many years. Every inch of the church seems to be covered in thoughtful artwork, ranging from ornate tiles to small animals painted on the ceiling beams in bright colors. San Miniato is credited with saving Florence from destruction and is often depicted holding a city in the palm of his hand. I'd like to return to hear the Latin vespers being sung, which they do every Sunday at 6pm.
            Outside the church is the Monumental Cemetery where famous and important people were buried. There is also a small herbal pharmacy/gift shop where I purchased my first piece of handmade Italian chocolate. It was delicious! I would describe it as smooth and creamy, a bit fruity but not too sweet, with a really satisfying texture that makes just a bite seem like enough. The chocolate was made better by sharing it around.
            Continuing in the rain, we sought temporary shelter at a smaller Franciscan church on the hilltop. Perhaps it was the humility of the structure, or the fewer number of tourists inside, but this church seemed to have much more heart. The frescoes were not as impressive as at San Miniato, and many had fallen into disrepair and chips. In the center aisle lay a illuminated manuscript of psalms, with intricate and colorful calligraphy and pictures. I flipped through and wondered who else had stood here and done the same.
            There was a smaller altar for lighting prayer candles, and I chose to light one for my father who is undergoing chemotheraphy again this week for his leukemia. He's been on my mind and it was comforting to be able to honor him in that way. Moved to tears, the statue over the altar seemed to comfort me, and I thought about the difference in connection and reaction to sculpture versus the two-dimensional frescos of the San Miniato.
            I rejoined the group outside and we walked to the Piazza Michelangelo once again, where I snapped a photo of the famous David sculpture – as painted on the side of an ice cream truck! It's nice the Florentines do not take themselves too seriously.

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